Monday, March 26, 2012

Post-Fallas Thoughts

Wait...where's the noise? I hear cars? What?
How...why...what?
Oh my god! I remember that! and...did I do that?
Wait DID THAT WHOLE THING BURN?!? 
Everything's gone...where are the colors? 
I have school?!
I have homework?!
...
I'm not from Valencia?!?


A Note on the Corrida

This is an event that marked me and jumped out of the usual care-free aspect of Fallas, so I'd like to comment on it a little more, as I think the different opinions are interesting!
I bought a ticket for the corrida with friends knowing well and good that I did not support the idea of paying to watch an animal suffer and die, but going along with the Spanish custom during fiestas to come out of your comfort zone and do things you would never otherwise do. I figured, as such a huge part of the culture, I'd give it a go, and then either change my opinion or solidify it. 
Rest assured, I still am against the idea and frankly think the tradition, as old as it is, should be modified in some way. However, one thing I would like to share, because it suprised me, is that there DOES exist a unique relationship between the torrero and the toro he is trained to kill between the obvious one of dominator/dominated. 




If you look in the picture above, the torrero is kneeling down facing the torro, and has placed his hand on the toro's nose to calm him. Though I closed my eyes during all these scenes because I couldn't bear to watch the despair and final surrendering of the toro, I have to admit that that scene brought to my attention another emotion between the two, of respect. The torero does not hate the toro, he doesn't look down on the toro, but it seems that the two dance a black tango that must end in one dying, and both know it. The torero seemed to thank the toro for allowing him to live off of this art, seemed to praise him for his strength and robust fight, and that alieved at least a little bit the dread I had been feeling at reaching this stage in each fight. 
I think it is extremly important to take our stands in life over various issues, and keep grounded to our morals, but to also try to understand everything we disagree with, and to learn that, even in the moments when we are the most against something, there may be a very small glimmer of respect, art, or emotion that can be garnered, if one looks very, very closely through her fingers.
And then, if you've done that and you're still grounded in your beliefs, then you've proven yourself a firm supporter for your cause. And that's extremely respectable!

Fallas, Day 6

Title: La Crema (The Burning)/El Fin (The End)

Date: Monday, March 19th

Occurences to Mention: learned how to make empanadas with my host mom, went to my first--and last--corrida where Enrique Ponce (VERY famous) was featured, met with my girls to see my favorite Falla (the Moulin Rouge one) burn down, saw the official Falla de Valencia burn, ran home in the rain, past entire parades of people dressed as Muslims, Arab Princesses, and Christians, slipped and fell in front of a police car.


















Time Asleep: 2:30 am. But so did the Spaniards! Pretty sure no one could have lasted longer if they wanted to...

Fallas, Day 5

Title: Nit del Foc (Night of Fire)

Date: Sunday, March 18th

Occurrences to Mention: The Virgen is completed, Nit del Foc (best firework show in the Northern Hemisphere), almost got punched when a fight erupted in the jam-packed street in front of an outdoor concert, made new nocturnal friends.

Offrands to the Virgen! They take up as much room as the Virgen herself!














BEAUTIFUL GRAND FINALE!

Time Asleep: 7:00 am.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Fallas, Day 4

Title: Ofrenda de Flores a la Virgen de los Desamparados (Offering of Flowers to the Virgin Mother of Valencia)

Date: Saturday, March 17th

Occurrences to Mention: walked around with the sunshine to photoshoot Fallas and walk on to more parades and bands playing in the street, saw the beautiful and moving Procession and offering of flowers to the Virgin, tea with the girls, nighttime taking the streets again, discoteca til dawn (but Mom, it's Fallas!),...craaaazy night!

Sorry for the lack of pictures...camera died!














Time Asleep: 8:40 am. THERE'S a Spaniard!

Fallas, Day 3

Title: Planta de las Fallas (literally, Planting of the Fallas)

Date: Friday, March 16th

Occurences to Mention: Toured my Valencia dotted with embellished, finally finished Fallas with Becky, saw/recognized the sheer talent/bought unique leather-and-wire earrings from a street vendor (Mom--be awaiting a package), Mascletá (see previous post for description), free night concert at the beautiful modern Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (thanks host brother for the motorcycle lift over there), nightime discomovil hopping (free outdoor dance parties, basically--sorry, no pictures ;) ).








 Falleras have to take their smoke breaks too...It's hard representing a community!


Time Asleep: 4:00 am. Getting there.

Fallas, Day 1-2

Title: Pedestrians run THIS town!

Date: Wednesday, March 14th-Thursday, March 15th

Occurrences to Mention:
Wednesday-->ran to the beach to soak up the sun and freedom after class, lit fireworks with professor after class, first tour of the Fallas already up in the city (the Moulin Rouge Falla--the one at the end of the illuminated street, coveniently also boasting an Eiffel Tower--remained my favorite until the day I watched it burn)
Thursday-->met friends in the city, bought homemade buñuelos from a baker who formed and fried them right in front of me, wine tasting at night with the girls, learned the value of a cab ride.










Time Asleep:
Wednesday-->1:30 am. Lame
Thursday-->either 2:45 am or 7 am, depending on your version of the night. No further comments.